So youre a Hawaii veteran. Youve stood on the green cliffs of Na Pali, gazed at the rising sun over Haleakala, and ridden a longboard on the waves at Waikiki. And now, youre ready for the Big Island--the largest, youngest, and most eclectic of the Hawaiian islands. The Big Island--officially called the Island of Hawaii--has it all, from vast stretches of sun-baked lava to misty rainforests, and mile after mile of uncrowded gold coastline. Theres a lot to do and see on the Big Island, but youd be surprised at how much you can accomplish in just a few days. And, with the right choice of activities, youll still have plenty of time to enjoy doing nothing at all.
Next Stop: Paradise
The main attraction for most Big-Island visitors is the beach, and theres no better stretch of oceanfront real estate than the Kohala Coast. Sure, its surrounded by some of the most barren, rocky terrain on the whole island, but what you sacrifice in the way of jungles and waterfalls you make up for in--you guessed it--perfect weather. If youre coming to Hawaii for the sun and surf, Kohala is the mother lode--the sunniest, surfiest part of the Big Island. Not only that, but the Kohala Coast puts you within a stones throw of a few of the Big Islands best treasures, including a famous ranch, an artsy roadside town, and a magnificent rainforest on the Hamakua Coast. And, if you really feel like getting a true birds-eye view of the island, theres always a helicopter tour.
If you choose to stay on the Kohala Coast, then youll want to fly into Kona, the Big Islands west-coast airport. This will put you within 10 to 25 miles of Kohalas various oceanfront resorts. Driving north from the airport on Highway 19 you may feel like youve just touched down in the middle of the Australian Outback or the Serengeti, but what youre actually seeing is lava. Lots of it. As you gaze out on this desolate landscape, try to fight your inclination to mutter, I came to Hawaii for this? It wont be long before youve fallen in love with Kohala, along with the main attractions that come with it: perfect beaches and perfectly sunny days.
A Lazy Day at Hapuna Beach
Once youve made it to your hotel, daylight permitting, you can ease yourself into the Zen of the Big Island by heading straight to one of Kohalas famous beaches. Among the most popular of these sandy stretches is Hapuna Beach, located off of Highway 19 at the foot of the tastefully landscaped Hapuna Beach Prince Hotel.
During the summer Hapuna is the quintessential swimming beach. Gentle swells roll in from the west and break benignly on a half-mile stretch of golden sand dotted with the occasional picnic basket, chaise lounge, or umbrella. At the end of the day, when the mercury has dipped to a more tolerable level, honeymooners, kids, and old folks splash around in the surf and snooze in the dwindling rays of the setting sun. During the winter, when big waves and dangerous rip currents relegate visitors to dry land, the water here is not always so accommodating for swimmers. But even if youre unable to swim at Hapuna, youll still be able to take in the epic sunset over the deep blue Pacific.
Just a few steps north of Hapuna Beach is a little cove where coral reefs and schools of fish co-exist congenially with an unlikely aquatic specimen: the snorkeler. When the ocean is calm, this cove is the ideal place to float around with the usual spectacular array of multicolored fish and--if youre lucky--one of the green sea turtles that makes its nesting ground on the Kohala Coast. Its best to snorkel here during the morning hours, before the afternoon winds and surf kick up. If you dont have your own mask and fins, you can rent them for about $7 from the Hapuna Beach Prince Hotels beach kiosk.
Hangin in Hawi
You may have heard that the Big Island boasts 11 of the worlds 13 climate zones. Perhaps more impressive is the fact that you can drive through a half dozen of them in the span of a few hours. To witness the rapid transition from desert to jungle, head north from the Kohala Coast on Highway 19, turn left onto Highway 270 at the first stop sign past the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, then follow the road as it curves around the northernmost tip of the island. Before you know it, the surroundings will change from black lava to green pastures, and finally to lush hills and valleys. Along the way youll pass through the town of Hawi, where you can sample some good Mexican eats, grab an ice-cream cone or latte, and browse through a half dozen arts-and-crafts galleries. You can also fill up on gas if you need to before continuing another 20 minutes to the end of the road, where youll find a narrow parking lot overlooking an utterly spectacular view of the Hamakua Coast. If you are in good health, its worth the effort to take the trail at the far end of the parking lot down to the black-sand beach below. The hike back up is steep, so bring water and be prepared to work off the tacos and ice cream you ate back in Hawi.
Exploring the Big Island by Air
Helicopter tours are a bit pricey, and theyre definitely not for everyone. But if youre interested in seeing parts of the Big Island that are otherwise inaccessible or very hard to get to, theres no better way than to take to the skies.
As for what you can explore, the Big Island is unique in that it offers two distinctly different sightseeing options. The first locale is the area surrounding Kilauea, the enormous active volcano that amazes scientists and tourists alike all year round. As you fly over craters, black plains, and entire grids of streets that have been wiped out by rivers of lava, youll get a sense for the sheer volume of land that has bubbled forth from Kilauea. Youll also get up close and personal with a few awe-inspiring sights, including the steaming Puu Oo lava vent and Peles Fountain, the coastal area where molten lava pours into the sea, forming new land--and making the Island of Hawaii bigger every day.
In sharp contrast to Kilauea, a helicopter tour of the Hamakua Coast treats you to views of towering, lush sea cliffs accentuated by dozens of waterfalls, narrow canyons, and powerful waves crashing into the rocks below. You wont see many roads as you fly along this coastline; the only other way to explore much of the Hamakua Coast is to backpack in through miles and miles of jungle.
A helicopter tour should only take a few hours of your day, which means youll still have ample time for the beach or another short trip before the evening rolls around. The same goes for horseback riding in Waimea and driving up to the Hamakua Coast: Both activities can be accomplished in about a half day, leaving you time for a massage, a poolside Mai Tai, or a sunset sail. So relax--or dont. Its your vacation, and the Big Island has plenty to offer the active, and not-so-active, visitor.